Manufacture of shoes



Oct. 15, 1929. GQDDU MANUFACTURE OF SHOES Original Filed June 1.9, 1924 Patented 0a. 15, 12529 GEORGE GODDU, OF WINCHESTER, MASSACHUSETTS, ASQIGHOB '1'0- UNITED SHOI' mcnmnnr conro'nar JERSEY ION, or rarnnson,

NEW A CORPORATION OF NEW murncrunn or SHOES Applicationfiled June 18, #924, Serial No. 721,007. Renewed Ap il 23, 1929.

This invention relates to the manufacture of shoes of that type in .which there is an insole and an outsole with the outsole-secured against the outer fact; of a portion of p the upper that overlies the outer orjbottom face of the insole. The invention is'herein illustrated as applied to the manufacture of shoes in which the outsole is secured in that i'elation to the upper by means of stitches.

n penetrating, at least at the time of their insertion, to the inside of the shoe and herein-.

after frequently referred to as through-and through stitches.

* no men practice to tasten the upper to the insole in the lasting operation, along the sides.

as well as at the toe and heel ends, by tacks that are clinched on the inner faceof the insole, and thereafter to. apply the outsole over at the tacks. Shoes of this kind are in demand among a large class of the trade, since they are less expensive to make and are frequently lighter in appearance than welt shoes, and since they are more durable and more readily an repaired than turn shoes. Among the rea:

sons for the comparatively inexpensive character of-such shoes are the fact that fewer manufacturing operations are involved than in making welt shoes, the fact that it is not as necessary for the shoes to standafter lasting to permit the uppers to set before the manulecturing operationsarecontinued, and the fact that adequate durability does not re quire the use of a very high grade of insole. Notwithstanding, however, the manifest advantages which result in a substantial de rnand for shoes of this kind, they are not used as extensively as they would be ifit were not for the presence of the side lastingtacks in the insole. The clinched lasting tacks along the sides of-the'insole render the shoe considerahly less flexible than it otherwise would beand therefore less comfortable to the wearer. A still more serious objection to the prest ence of these tacks is that their clinched ends fact that in the wear of the shoe and the con- H 'light insoles. The present application is, m0reover,a conlight, flexible only because it involves additional operations on the inner face of the insole frequently cause discomfort and may cause injury to the wearer of the shoe. This may be due to im- 1 proper clinching or, more commonly, to the stunt bending of the insole the tacks have atendency tobecome loose and to work up into the interior of the-shoe. The rusting of the tacks also fre uently causes discolorations on the interioro the shoe. All such objectionable conditions are the more likely to result if the shoes are provided with comparatively To overcome-these objections fy an, increasing demand for a hoe, it has been proposed to, B5 fastenthe upper along .the sides of the shoe in the lasting operation by theuse of temporary lasting tacks which are only partially driven and are not clinched, and after the upper has substantially set in lasted shape to insert a comparatively few upper retaining staples through a channel lip formed for the"- and to satis purpose in the bottom ofthe insole and then to remove the lasting tacks. This procedure, v however, adds. to the cost of the shoes, not

in driving the staples and in removing the 1 tacks, but also because it is nec for the shoes to stand on their racks after lasting for Y a number of hours, and itmav be for a day or more, to permit the uppers toset, so that the staples thus utilized will be adequate to retain the uppers until the outsoles are applied and secured. This introduces into the, manufacture of shoes of the above-mentioned typea substantial element of the extra'expense involved in. welt shoe manufacture, by 4 reason not only of the additional manufactur- 7 ing operations, but also of the need of mains taming a large supply of lasts and of racks and 0 providing ample floor space for staring the shoes between the lasting and the stapling operations. The presence of the lasting tacks, moreover, makes it diflicult to insert the staples at regular intervals or in locations such as to insure that they will retain the upper in a satisfactory manner if the staples are inserted before the lasting tacks are removed. Such staple fastenings, therefore, may vary greatly in their effectiveness, 100

plishment of this and other objects, the invenand the quality of the work after Subsequent manufacturing operations depends largely upon the care used in driving the staples.

secured directly against the outer faceof that portion of the uppeinthat overlies the insole,

: whereby shoes of this type may be made that are free from the objectionable side lasting.

tacks withoutthe necessity for the additional manufacturing operations or other elements,

of additional expense above mentioned, and without danger of objectionable .di lacenient of theupper after lasting. For t e' accomtion provides a method of making shoes of 'the above-mentioned type, including the characteristic step of securing the outsole against the outer face of the portion of the upper overlying the insole, by which, in preparation fEr the attachment of the outsole,

the upper is fastened to the insole as a part of the lasting operation by the use of permanent fastenings so applied and of such a character as to be unobjectionable in the finished shoe and yet adequate to hold the u per securelyin lasted position in the interva between the lasting and the outsole-securing operations. The fastenings are applied in-such manner as not to penetrate the inner face of the insole,

but are nevertheless securely anchored to the insole. In onemode of-procedure, as herein illustrated, the fastenings are driven through "If the 'outsole is to be secured by throug achannel lip provided for the purpose and comprising a portion only of the thickness of the insole, and for better insurance of holding the upper securely, the fastenings are shown as driven substantially atjthe base oft e channel lip and are anchored to the insole by clinching themon-the inner side of the li "and-through stitches, this lip v.will be located far enough from the edge of'the"insole to 5 permit the outsole stitches to pass through the lIlSOlQ between the lip and said edge.

For the' purpose in view, the invention as I herein exemplified further provides, as a part of the novel method, for operating upon the upper successively .in difierent locations along .the sides of the shoe to position the upper in lasted relation to the insole, as by pulling it and working it over the margin of the insole-and against the lip, and while each of the portions of the upper thus operated upon is still undenpu'lling tension or is otherwise, held in lasted position or under lasting strain, for inserting a fastening in the manner contem lated to secure it in lasted position As herein illustrated each fastenof this character constitutes an important teas ing is inserted in the line of the lasting strain, as distinguished from a location at one side of the lineof strain. While in some aspects the invention is not limited in respect to the character of the. fastenings, important objects of the invention are served by the use of staples'to fasten the upper to the insole. Experience has shown that the upper is held with am [1e security by the use of lasting staples 0? such fine wire that they cause no appreciable unevenness in the bottom of the shoe, permitting the channel lip, where a lip of this kind is utilized, to be turned down substantially flat after the. lasting of the shoe. \Vhile a lip formed as an integral part of the-insole by a channeling operation is advantageous in that it provides insurance that the upper will be held securely'if .the insole is of good quality, it is sometimes considered advantageous to attach a piece of material such as canvas tape to the insole to serve as the lip. This permits theme of insoles that are too thin or of too inferior material to be successfully channeled for the purposes in view, without detracting from satisfactory results in respect to the holding of the upper securely in lasted position.

A shoe of the type referred to made by the method herein illustrated is of superior quality by reason of the fact that the upper is secured in its original lasted CODdltlOIl over the outer face of the insole by permanent metallic fastenings which do not penetrate to the inner face of the insole and are each insorted through a portion of the upper sub- H100 jected to strain in the lasting of the shoe, so that the upper'is held securely in properly lasted positiouwithout the presence of the usual clinched sidelastingtacks, and a shoe tureot the invention. 7 a The. invention will now be more particularly explained by reference to the accompanying drawings and thereafter set forth in the'claims. no

In the drawings, I Fig. 1 illustrates the channeling of an 1nsole for purposes of the present invention.

Figs. 2 3 and 4 illustrate successive operations in theside lasting of the shoe in accordance with the present invention, by the aid of mechanism described and claimed in my prior application hereinbefore mentioned;

'5 is a perspective view of a portion of the side'of the shoe after lasting;

Fig. 6 is a view of a portion of the shoe after the fast'ening of an outsoleby through-andthrough stitching, partly in cross-section and partly in perspective, showing the lasting fastenings and also the through-and-through stitches securingthe outsole to the insole;

- Fig. 17 is a 'view similar to Fig. l'illustrating theme of a canvas tape to serve as a lip on an unchanneled insole; and

lll

til

lll

7 till hill clinched upon an anvil member 16 which en- Fig. 8 shows a portion of an insole provided of this invention in the manufacture ofthrough-and-through sewed shoes where the insoleis of such quality that it may be provided with a channel lip adequate to hold the upper in lasted position, the insole 2 is chan neled, as illustrated in Fig. 1, by the use of well-known machinery including a channel hife 4 which makes a cut directed outwardly toward theedge of the insole to provide a channel lip 6 positioned at such distance from the edge of the insole thatthe through-andthrough stitches for securing the outsole to the insole will be located'between the lip and the outer edge of the insole; The channel lip willextend along both sides of the insole from the heel seat forwardly to theto'e, and may or may not extend also around thetoe. If it is desired, as herein illustrated, to fasten the toe end portionof the upper to the insole by the useof lasting tacks as heretofore, the channel lip will preferably extend only to a point at eachside of the toe where the toe lasting begins. 7

'The lipped insole and the upper materials are assembled on the last, and on the usual lines of work the upper is then pulled over at the toe and fastened by the pulling-over taclis. Thereafter the sides of the'shoe are lasted by subjecting different portions of the upper materials along the sides successively to lasting strainand positioning them in lasted relation to the lipped insole and securin each of the portions thus operated upon to the lip of the insole by inserting a fine wire staple 8 through the upper andthe lip and clinching I it substantially at the base of the lip to anchor it. In practisingthe invention by the aid of the machine shown in my said prior application, the upper is pulled by a gripper 10, first in the direction of the dotted lines of Fig. 2 and then inwardly over the insole as illustrated by the full lines; and thereafterthe upper, while held yieldingly by the'gripper, is pressed down uponthe bottom faceof the insole outside of the channel lip and against the lip by the action of a staple guiding memher 12, as illustrated in Fig. 3. While the upper is still held under lasting strain, as herein illustrated by the gripper and by the pressureof the member- 12, a staple is driven in the line ofthe lasting strain bythe staple driver l gand the legs of the staple are gages the insole in its channel and acts also as a channel guide and shoe 'positionin member to assist in holding the shoe against t e pull of the gripper. It will be understood that after these operations have been performed in one location, the shoe is moved along the'channel -guidel6 to a different location and the same "lasting operations are repeated. -Inth"isman-' er the sides of the shoe are lasted progressively, the upper being fastened securely and permanently in lasted position by the staples without opportunity for it to relax between the upper pulling and the fastening operations. It will be noted that the staples are driven in directions inclinedto the plane of the insole and substantially perpendicular to the channel lip as the latter is positioned by the channel guide in inclined relation to the outer face" of the insole so that the legs of the staples are clinched close to the base of the li I After the sides of the shoe have thus been lasted, the toe and heel ends are lasted in the tween the insole and the outsole. It will be evident that as the margin of the upper materials and the channel lip are pressed down, before and during thelaying of the outsole, the tendency is to tip the staples to positions more nearly perpendicular to the plane of the insole, thereby exerting a further tighten ing effect upon the upper materials. The

themselves in the substance of 'theinsole in such manner'that they interfere in no appreciable degree with the flattening down of ends of the legs of the fine wire staples, clinched as hereinbefore explained, embed the channel lip, nor are they perceptible in any way after the completion of the shoot After the sole laying operation, in accordance with the procedure herein illustrated, the last. is removed and the outsole is secured against the outer-face of that portion of the upper that overlies the insole by throughand-through stitches 22. These stitches may terminate in a channel formed in the outer face ofthe outsole, as usual, and as herein illlustrated extend entirely through the inso e.

Instead of channeling the insole, it may be preferable on some lines of work, for example where the insole is very thin or of poor quality, to secure a piece of extraneous material to it to serve as the upper-attaching lip. Fig.

7 illustrates the practice of the method by the use of a lip of this, character, such lip comprising, for example, a strip of canvas tape 24 WhlCll is secured to the insoleby through-and-through stitches. In this case the tape is positioned against the member 161 for uiding and positioning the shoe and the stap es are driven through the tape and are clinchedithereon closely adjacent tothe surface of the insole. After the lasting the tape is turned downflat upon the bottom surface llll of the insole with the margin of the upper materials, and the subsequent operations in description that the present invention provides a method of making, in an economical manner, a so-called 'tackless shoe. The fine wire staples, extending only partway throughv the thickness of the insole, do not add to the bottom of the shoe that stiffness which has been an objection heretofore to the use of the side lasting tacks, nor do these staples render the inner surface/of the insole uneven or otherwise detract from the comfortable wearing qualities and the good appearance of the shoe. The fact, moreover, that'in the practice ofthe method of this invention the upper is fastened permanently to the insolein the lasting of the shoeis an important advantage,

not only by reason of the substantial econo- 5 mies in labor, time and materials as compared fwith methods involving the use of temporary lasting tacks, but for the further reason that there is no danger of displacement of any portion of the upper after lasting asthere is where the lasting fastenings are removed 35, eure'by lletters Patent of the United States and others substituted.

Having explained the nature of the invention and set forth fully how it may be practised, what I claim as new and desire to,se-

1. That improvement in methods of mak ing shoeshaving an insole and an outsole, which consists in operating upon the upper successively in different locations along the edge of the shoe bottom to subject it to last- 'ing strain and to position it in lasted relation to the-insole, securing the upper to the insole in each of said locations while holding it under lasting strain and before the next succeeding portion of the upper is subjected to lasting strain by driving a metallic fas tening through a portion of the upper which is under strain and anchoring the fastening without penetrating the inner face of the insole, and thereafter applying the outsole over the insole and securing it to the insole by a row of fastenings extending at the time of their insertion-to the-inside of the shoe.

2. That improvement in methods of making shoes having an insole and an outsole,- which consists in gripping and pulling the upper successively in different locations along the edge of the shoe bottom to shape.

it" over the last and laying it over the insole in each of said locations by-pressure applied theretosubstantia'lly in the line of the pulling strain, fastening the up er to the insole I in each of said locations, be ore pulling it in the next succee'ding location, by driving a ing shoes having an insole and an outsole, which consists in providing the insole with a lip on its bottom face, subjecting the upper successively in different locations along the edge of the shoe bottom to lasting strain and pressing it while under the lasting strain against the lip of the insole, supporting the lip in each of said locations in turn by a clinching tool presented to the lip in the dif- 3. That improvement in methods of mak- I ferent locations successively, driving a me- 'tallic fastening through the upper and the lip in each of said locations and clinching the fastening on said clinching tool while the upper is held pressed against the lip, and there after applying the outsole over the insole and securing it to the insole by a row of stitches extending at the time of their insertion to the inside of the shoe.

4. That improvement in methods of making'shoes having an insole and an outsole, which consists in providing the insole with a lip on its bottom, face, gripping and pulling the upper. successively in different locations along the edge of the shoe bottom to tension it over the last and'laying it while under tension over the margin of the insole and against the lip, supporting the lip in each of said locations in turn by a clinching tool presented to the lip in the different locations successively and having its engagement with the lip limited to local engagement in the same plane perpendicular to the bottom of the last as the line of the pulling strain applied to the upper, driving a metallic fasten ing through the upper and the lip and clinching it on the clinching tool in each of said locations prior to the pulling of the upper in the next succeeding location, and thereafter applying the outsole over the insole and securing it to the insole by a row of fastenings extending at the time of their insertion to the inside of the shoe.

5. That improvement in methods of makingshoes having an insole and an outsole,

which consists in providing the insole with insole while they are under the lasting strain by driving staples through the upperand the lip of the insole each in the line of the lasting strain and clinching the staples, and

thereafter applying the outsole ov'er the in- 11:}0

, been applied and through to the insole dtheilip of the through the P52? in the line and clinching the staple,

portions of. then of each of the operations 11 and before operating thereon 'm the next suction to the insole, at "the end of each of the operations upon'the upper and: before tensioning theupper in the next succeeding 10- cation, securin the portion operated u on to the insole by riving, a staple throng that part of the upper to which the tension has the insole lip and clinching the, staple, apd thereafter applying the outsole over the insole and securing it by through and through stitches 7. That improvement in methods of mark ing shoes having an insolvand an outsole, .which consists in providing the insole with a lipon its bottom face, pulling a portion of the upper over the last and securing it to leby drivin a staple the pullthe insole repeating these up per pulling and stapling operations in different locations along the sides of the shoe, and thereafter applying the outsole over the insole and securing it to the insole by throughand-through stitches.

ing strain and through the lip of 8. That improvement in methods of making shoes having an insole and an outsole,

the insole with which consists in providin a lip on its bottom 'face, su jecting difierent per successively to 133131115 strain to shape e upper over, the last an iastening each of said ortionswhile under the lasting strainto the ip of the insole "with the lip positioned at a substantlal an le to the plane of the insole, turning the lip ownwardly in a direction away from the edge of the insole and thereby further tightenlng the upper, and thereafter securing the outsole to the insole by through-and-through stitches.

9. That improvement in methods of mak ing shoes having an insole, and an' outsole, which consists in providing the insole on its ttoin face with a lip extending alon its side marginwidthwise of the insole and aving itsinner edge upturned from said face,

operating upon the upper successively in difterent locations along the sides of the shoe to position different portions of .the upper in lasted relation to ceeding location, securing the portion operated upon to the insole by inserting a staple through the upper and the upturned lip in "substantially perpendiculan. to said lip and clinching the staple, turning back a direction sole and thereby further tighte metallicfastening so applie face of that portion o the insole, at th'e'endpen the upper the lip to lie substantially flat plplon the ing the upper, and thereafter securing the g shoes having an insole and an outsole, which consists in providing the insole with a lip on its bottom face extending at anangle to said'face,

operating upon the upper successively in diiferent locations along the sides of the shoe to position different portions of the'upper in lasted relation to the insole, at the end of each of the operations upon theupper and while holding the up-.

per in lasted position prior to operating thereon In the next succeeding location, securing the portion operated upon to the in v outsole to the insole by through-and-through stitches.

10. That improvement in methods of maksole by inserting a staple through the upper and the lip plane of the insole to position the legs of the staple close tothe base of the lip, clinching the legs of the staple, turning the lip downwardly in a direction away from the edge of the insole tolie substantially flat upon the insole, and thereafter securing the outsplle to the insole by through-and-through stitc es.

ina direction inclined to the 11. That improvement inmethods ofmaking shoes having an insole and an outsole, which consists in securing on the bottom face of the insole a strip of material to serve as an upper-attaching lip, lasting the shoe by posi tioning different portions of the upper successively 1n lasted relation to said insole and lip and securing each of said portions yvhile it is under lasting strain or pressure t6 the lcilp by driving a staple'through the upper an the lip before the next succeeding portion of the upper is thus positioned, and thereafter applying the outsole over the insole and securing it to the insole by StltChBS.

12. That im rovement in methods of mak ing shoes whic consists in tensioning an upper over a last successively in different locations along the sidesdf the last and also laying the. marginpf theupper successivelyin diiferent locations over the outer face of an insole on the last, securingteach of the overlaid portions of the margin of the upper to thefinsole, before laying the upper over the insole in the'next succeedin' location, by a without penetrating the inner face ofthe' insole, and thereafter applying an outsole over the insole and securin it against the outer lies the insole.

13. That improvement in methods of male ing shoes whic consists in gripping and pulling an uppe Over a 'lastsuccessively in difthe upper that overthrough-and-through as to anchor it ferent locations along the sides of the lastand laying themargin'of each of the tensioned portions of the upperin lasted position over the outer face of aninsoleon the last, secur- Qingeach portion of the margin of the upper to the insole, before pulling the upper in the next succeedinglocation, by driving a staple and [anchoring it in such relation to the insole asnot to penetrate the inner face of the insole; and thereafter applying an outsole over the insole and securing it against the outer face of the margin of the upper overlying the insole.

14. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in providing an insole with, a lip on its outer or bottom face at a distance from its edge and mounting the in.-

sole on a-last, tensioning an upper over the last successively in different locations along the 'sides of the last and also laying the marg'in of the upper successively in different cations over the outer face of the margin of the insole and against the lip, securing each of the'overlai d portions of the margin of the upperto the insole, before laying .the upper over the insole in the next succeeding location, bydriving a metallic fastening through the upper andthe lip and clinching the fastening, and thereafter applying-an outsole over the insole and securin' it against the outen'face of that portion 0' the upper that along the sides of the last and laying the margin ofeach of the tensioned portions .df the upper in lasted 'osition over the outer'face o themargin o the insole and against the I lip, supporting the lip adjacent to each of the "overlaid portions of the margin of the upper by a clinchingtool presented in engagement with the different portions of the lip succes- I .sively, securing each of the overlaid portions ofthe margin of the upper to the insole be- I fore laTying the-upper over the insole in the name to speclficatlon' next succeeding location, by driving a staple it on said clinching tool, and thereafter applying an outsole over the insole and securing it against the outer face of that portion of over the insole in the next succeeding location, by driving a metallic fastening through the upper andlip and clinching the fastening, turning the lip downwardly to position that portion of the margin of the upper which is against it in substantially parallel relation to the'outer faceof the insole, and thereafter applying an outsole over the insole and securing it against the outer face of that portion of the upper that overlies the insole.

17. A shoe provided with an insole and an outsole and having the margin of its upper along its opposite sides secured in its original lasted condition over the outer face of the insole by staples driven'through portions of the upper sub ected to strain in the lasting of the shoe andso applied as not to penetrate the inner face of the insole although anchored to the insole and having its outsole secured against the outer face of that portion of the upper that overlies the insole.

- 18. A shoe'provided with an insole and an outsole andhaving the margin of its upper along its opposite sides secured in its original lasted condition over the outer face of the insole by staples driven through portions so arranged that the ortion of the margin of the upper secured t ereto is substantizfily parallel to the outer face of the insole, and

having its outsole secured against the outer through the upper and the lip and clinching v a distance from its edge. and mountingtheinsole on a last, tensioning an upper over the last-successively in diiferentjlocations along face of that portion of the upper thatoverlies the insole. v

19. A shoe having its upper secured in its original'lasted condition to the outer face of the insole by permanent metallic fastenings eachinserted in the line of the lasting strain on' the upper through a lip on the insole and clinched on the inner face of the lip and having its outsole secured to the insole by through-and-through stitches between i the ed e .of the insole and saidfastenings.

.testimony whereof I- have vsigned my GEORGE GODDU.'

the sides of the last and also laying the marv of the upper successively in different locations overt apper-teats insole; borers laym' 'g the upper p ,e outer face jofthe margin of the Linsole against'thexli with the; lip 'posil tionedat jface, secuniig each yofltlteoverlaidporjtions of; the margin of the 

